Sala Beach House sits above Thompson’s Bay in KwaZulu-Natal, within view of the rocks from which the Zulu king Shaka reputedly asked loyal warriors to jump into the sea. It enjoys a prime beachfront location in greater Ballito, the upmarket residential area that has become Durban’s coolest coastal hub. Aside from the grand ocean views, fringed by subtropical foliage, the property is not overlooked, offering a sense of privacy and space that is a rare luxury on this densely developed urban coastline.
It’s also easy to dip into local life – aside from the beach below, manned by lifeguards, there’s the large and lovely Thompson’s tidal pool, or the popular Salt Café, an 800m stroll away and opposite Shaka’s Rock Beach. The Salt Rock Hotel – a local institution – is a five-minute drive away. Durban’s international airport is only 20 minutes by car, making Sala a great stepping stone into or out of a trip to Zululand.
I love the intimacy of a “house hotel”: architecturally and atmospherically homely, but with full-service facilities, and a small but professional team. Sala is like stepping into your own beach house, with an uncluttered yet cosy lounge-dining area – white sofas with monochromatic cushions on polished white floors, softened with rough-hewn timber and potted plants.
Augmenting the homely atmosphere is a small team who offer personal, warm hospitality, that’s relaxing yet highly professional. The knowledgeable concierge services covered a gamut of off-site experiences but I was perfectly happy to stay put and be pampered in Sala’s subtle wellness focus. Being unpractised, I am not a yoga fan but with the early-morning session included I gave it a whirl, and it was a fabulous way to start the day!
The next morning, general manager Henk arranged a deeply relaxing 45-minute “sound bathing”. Aside from the beach, there is a choice of pools – the bar pool feels more decorative; the larger beachside pool has plenty of loungers. There’s also a smaller private pool located in front of the three-bedroom villa, or plunge into the public tidal pool at the end of the beach (snorkelling equipment is available at reception).
Spa therapists, working in three treatment rooms, are excellent, and the sauna is for guest use any time of the day. But it’s the small touches, like Innocent, my waiter, who changed his shift hours in order to serve me my final breakfast, and the whole team gathering to wave me goodbye. It made me feel like a VIP regrettably leaving my well-staffed beach home.
There are five bedrooms upstairs – two large Ocean suites bookending the two Ocean View rooms, and behind these, the Courtyard Suite, the only room without a seaview. On the ground-floor are the two Pool View rooms – the smallest but still well-proportioned and comfortable. They offer fringed sea views in addition to pool views (particularly the one closest to the pool), and direct access to the garden. Pool View rooms are also the only two that do not have a bath tub in addition to a walk-in shower.
Regardless of category, every room has floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening onto a terrace with outdoor seating, air conditioning and fans, a tea and coffee-station, a well-stocked minibar, weights, resistance bands and yoga mats, plus a beach basket, sarongs and sunscreen.
“Eat when you like, where you like, what you like” is just what you want to hear when on holiday. Breakfast is available all morning – there’s an extensive all-day menu, and dinner starts as early as 5.30pm. It’s a flexible guest-centric approach that extends to what’s on the plate – there’s something for everyone, and chefs are happy to adapt, such as serving a starter as a main.
Breakfast is a usually a continental brought to the table (cut fruit, cheese and salami, freshly baked croissant and muffin, homemade granola and yoghurt, fresh juice or smoothies) followed by something off the hot menu – the Sala shakshuka (poached egg on spicy tomato relish with feta cheese) is recommended. Vervet monkeys coming in to raid can be a nuisance or entertainment, depending on whether they get away with it or not.
Lunch is either three courses, or you can order from the all-day menu – I thought the prawn and citrus salad with orange and avocado was delicious. Dinner is another three-course menu that changes every three days; with a choice of four starters (I enjoyed the cured wagyu carpaccio, arranged into a pretty wreath); four mains (I was told to add fish to the south Indian curry, and loved it); two desserts, as well as fresh-baked bread to start, and fruit or cheese to end.
Double rooms from ZAR10,800 (£483) in low season; and from ZAR12,400 (£555) in high. Breakfast included.
Not suitable for guests with disabilities.
The three-bedroom beach villa is ideal, with its own pool and garden area, private dining and the same direct beach access. Children aged 12 and over only can stay in the main house.